Modern kitchen, marble backsplash, brass hardware, IKEA kitchen

Five Simple Ways to Make IKEA Cabinets Look Expensive

It’s no secret that I am a huge fan of IKEA kitchen cabinets. I’ve used them in three of my own houses and specified them for several clients over the years.

They are incredibly affordable for what you get, which includes some of the bells and whistles you’ll find in the highest end European cabinets. But, this post isn’t a love letter to IKEA…I’ll save that for another time.

This post is about how you can make IKEA cabinets look expensive with a few simple design tricks.

Add Legs to your Island

IKEA SEKTION kitchen remodel Fells Point Baltimore Maryland
In my Fells Point IKEA Kitchen Remodel, we used custom island legs and base molding to create a custom look on the large island.

Many of my clients request a “furniture” look for their island. I interpret that to mean they want legs, base molding, or panels – or a combination of all three.

Legs can anchor the countertop overhang, avoiding the floating look and providing balance. They also allow you to create a deeper overhang. The max countertop overhang without legs is 12″, but with legs you can easily extend that to 15″ or deeper. It’s best to check with your stone fabricator on what they recommend.

IKEA doesn’t sell furniture style legs for their islands, but it’s pretty easy to order them online in a variety of styles. You can buy them in person at Lowes or Home Depot or even make your own out of stock plywood and molding pieces. They are available in a variety of woods, and a good painter should be able to finish them to match your doors.

Incorporate custom moldings

IKEA SEKTION kitchen remodel Fells Point Baltimore Maryland
We used a two-part crown in the Fells Point IKEA kitchen remodel.

If you are considering a traditional or transitional style IKEA kitchen, you can make it look more polished and finished by adding stock molding like crown molding, light rail, and baseboard from your local big box store.

Crown or cove molding can help build your cabinetry up to the ceiling for a fully built-in look. It’s important to understand a frameless cabinet box like IKEA SEKTION doesn’t have a place to attach the crown molding, so you actually need a two-part crown. This sounds more complicated than it is.

The first part is a straight or L-shaped piece that is attached to the top of the cabinet, which gives you a vertical surface to attached your angled crown. It also helps when trying to close the gap to the ceiling because ceilings are rarely level. The straight piece allows you to manipulate the crown if needed and avoid unsightly gaps.

Light rail molding is attached to the bottom of the wall cabinet to conceal any under-cabinet lighting. The height will be determined by the style of lighting you choose. I prefer to specify the LED tape lights because they have a very small profile. IKEA sells matching deco strips for their cabinet doors that are meant to be used as light rail molding.

Base molding builds up the base of the island to create that furniture look. You can also wrap it around the bottom of the cabinet at the end of a run and return it into the toe kick. You generally want your base molding to be shorter than the height of the toe kick (the recess at the bottom of a base cabinet) so that you can make that return if necessary. IKEA toe kicks are designed to be 4.5″ tall (the 30″ high box plus 4.5″ to bring you to the 34.5″ standard height), which gives you some nice options for molding styles.

If you are doing a “painted” IKEA door like BODBYN, you can bring a drawer front to the paint counter and have it color matched to a semi-gloss paint. Stains are a little trickier, especially if this is a DIY project.

A good painter should be able to stain moldings to match. Be aware that stain grade moldings will be more expensive than paint grade.

Get Creative With Cover Panels

IKEA Cabinets Laundry Room
Laundry Room Makeover with IKEA Cabinets

Cover panels are a must when designing with IKEA cabinets. The boxes are unfinished – white or dark brown – and don’t match the door finish. Cover panels match the door finish and are attached to the side of the cabinet box so everything appears seamless. There are a few ways I use cover panels to make my IKEA kitchens look more expensive.

First, I always cut or purchase my panels at a size so that they will extend past the edge of the box to cover the thickness of the door. The doors are 3/4″ thick (7/8″ when you add the little bumper dot). So, if a wall cabinet is 15″ deep, I specify the panel at 15.75″ wide so that it will hide the door from the side. This little trick instantly gives a more finished, custom look.

Unfortunately, IKEA cover panels only extend 5/8″ so they won’t fully cover the door thickness. I usually instruct my clients to purchase several of the large refrigerator panels and have them cut to size on site instead of purchasing the stock panels.

You can also use cover panels to simulate a cabinet “leg” by adding them to your base and tall cabinets in certain locations. I sometimes add a full-height panel (meaning it touches the ground vs. stopping at the toe kick) to the sides of base cabinets at the end of a run or an island. I almost always add them to full-height pantries on both sides. Sometimes I will use them to define a specific cabinet, like on either side of a sink base. 

Upgrade to Custom Doors

Modern kitchen, marble backsplash, brass hardware, IKEA kitchen
Semihandmade doors by Sarah Sherman Samuel for Design Milk

I so wish this option existed when I installed my own IKEA kitchens in 2006 and 2008. Today there are several companies providing gorgeous custom doors that you can install on your IKEA cabinets. 

IKEA cabinets are completely modular, meaning every piece is purchased separately. You do not have to purchase the IKEA doors, drawer fronts, panels, and toe-kicks.

Instead, you can order your doors, drawer fronts, panels, and toe kicks from another company like Semihandmade for a truly custom look. If you choose this route, no one will ever know that your kitchen is from IKEA. Of course, there will be an up-charge over the standard IKEA doors, but I think it’s worth the cost if it fits in your budget.

Modern IKEA kitchen, custom drawers by Reform, modern kitchen island, colorful kitchen
This modern style by Reform has gold edges, revealed only when the cabinet is open.

Another benefit of using a custom door company is that you can request your cover panels at the right sizes vs. having to cut them down yourself. 

IKEA Kitchen Semihandmade Beaded Door
IKEA Kitchen with Semi-Handmade Doors

Don't Forget Overlay Fillers

You might be wondering what a filler is let alone an overlay filler. Stock cabinets come in specific widths that are usually in 3″ increments. For example, 12″, 15″, 18″, etc. 

Fillers are needed in certain instances:

IKEA boxes are a little weird in that they don’t sell a 27″ or a 33″ cabinet box, jumping from 24″ to 30″ and 30″ to 36″. Don’t ask me why, but it complicates things even further and requires a little extra creativity when planning your layout.

Fillers help us solve certain problems, but why do we need the overlay filler and what the heck is it anyway? A filler is just a flat strip of material painted or stained to match the cabinetry doors. When it is installed, it is placed in between the box and the wall or the box and the adjacent cabinet creating a seamless transition.

BUT…frameless cabinet doors sit proud (ie. on top of) the cabinet box and are usually 3/4″ thick (7/8″ when you add those little bumper dots). When they are all installed properly, you should not see the front of the cabinet boxes at all.

The overlay filler is installed on top of the filler piece and sits almost flush with the face of the cabinet doors and drawers. Then the fillers aren’t as noticeable because you have a smooth transition from door to wall (or cabinet) and no change in depth, which can create a shadow effect and distracts the eye.

Whew! I feel like I should write a whole post just on fillers and how to deal with them now.

I really hope you enjoyed this post on how you can make IKEA cabinets look expensive with a few simple hacks to create a custom looking kitchen.

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29 thoughts on “Five Simple Ways to Make IKEA Cabinets Look Expensive

  1. Your posts are always so enjoyably educational! Bookmarking this one!

    1. Thanks, Jeri! I really enjoy writing posts like these, especially if they can help someone out.

  2. Thank you for this awesome post! I am designing a kitchen with Ikea now and will use this amazing information. Bless U!

    1. You’re welcome!!

  3. Thank you ! We’re going to install Ikea cabinets and the problems you address are exactly what I was worried about.

    1. Jenn, I’m glad the article helped! Did you see the other post on the twelve things you should know before planning your IKEA kitchen?

  4. So helpful! I had my planning appt and found my top two choices for doors are discontinued PLUS my choice of countertops! Laxarby and the dark version of Grimslov 🙁 The replacement for Laxarby is not to my liking. I’m so sad….but I figure if I wait long enough they’ll discontinue and have something I like!

  5. Honestly, I write design tips all the time and this was AWESOME. So insightful and well written.
    Thank you so much!

  6. I’m dying to know what the source of the gold cabinet hardware is. Can you help?

  7. Where are the gold/brass handles from on the picture with the chopping boards and dark green bottom cupboards ( note under picture says Semihandmade doors by Sarah Sherman Samuel for Design Milk)

  8. Hello and thank you for this informative post. Looks like the marble might be a splurge made affordable by the modular Ikea idea. Would you mind sharing the type of marble shown in the project with green lower cabinets and white upper cabinets, copper baking canisters and wood cutting boards? Thanks!

  9. Hi, I’m wondering where these brass knobs and pulls came from?

    1. I’m not sure. That photo is from the custom door vendor.

      1. They are also from semihandmade’s website: SSS x Park studio Mackinaw and half moon styles.

  10. WOW !!! yaaaasss girl !! THIS is what i’ve been lookin’ for ! well over a year I have been ‘researching various options. i want to add ‘custom ‘inset’ base cabinets (-ish) in my LR & several other rooms. but for LR i need a scaled down version. (ok fine – and an almost non-existent budget 🤣😂) I would’ve pulled the trigger on the sektion line a long time ago , except i couldn’t figure how to get the inset look … i even looked at having cabinet makers to make smaller sizes doors – but it just kept snowballing into more issues. But THIS may be doable !
    the only question i have (prob silly) , is if i go with uppers for my base – is ikea designed to allow their ‘base drawers / doors’ to be used on the uppers (i can’t find some thing that says which things can go where !)
    your site is AWESOME & so dang helpful – THANK YOU 🙏🏻 for sharing your talents / tips.

    1. So glad it was helpful! Yes, when IKEA switched over the SEKTION from AKRUM a few years ago, they designed the boxes to be stackable and modular. I think there are actually 15″ deep “base” cabinets in the catalog, but they’re really the same. Likewise, you can put drawers in the 15″ upper cabinets.

  11. Could you help me plan my daughter’s Ikea kitchen remodel? Let me know how we can collaborate. Thank you

  12. I know this is an older post but I am thinking of updating my kitchen. There are currently high end cherry cabinets but they are out of date. So I’m going to paint the lowers and wanted to add ikea uppers in the cove semihandmade doors. My issue/question is that when you open the cabinets, you see the white interior with peg holes and i feel like that instantly reveals “cheapness” that the semihandmade doors were covering up. Do you do anything to the interior of the cabinets? Are there matching white hole plugs? Thanks!

  13. When installing side panels to the floor, how do you protect it from moisture and swelling? I love the look but don’t want to risk any damage. Thanks for your advice!

  14. Hello Jilian,

    Amazing post!! We are renovating our kitchen and I would like to connect with you to discuss some creative ideas/inputs.

    Looking forward.


  15. I have been examinating out a few of your articles and it’s pretty good stuff. I will definitely bookmark your site.

  16. I simply want to mention I am just all new to blogging and site-building and honestly liked this blog site. More than likely I’m likely to bookmark your website . You surely come with fantastic well written articles. Regards for sharing your web page.

  17. Hi!! Great information.!.
    Did you do an article on fillers/ overlay fillers?
    I couldn’t quite understand the description and there weren’t any images .. but it sounds like something I want to understand…about to do a flat pack kitchen!

    1. Same here I don’t get it.

  18. When you must combine more than one cover panel for a large island, how do you hide the seam?

    1. If it’s larger than the 96” refrigerator panel, then you need to plan out a design for the seams. You could break it into thirds, for example. Or you could use door panels instead of cover panels.

  19. Hi Jillian, I love your posts about IKEA. I have read each one several times to figure out how to make my current IKEA kitchen reno look custom! I would love to know your advice about the following: I’m doing IKEA boxes and custom painted doors from Scherr’s. Scherr’s is also provided cover panels/filler pieces that they will paint the same custom color. The doors and cover panels/filler will arrive quite a bit later than the IKEA boxes. Do you recommend waiting until I have all the cover panels/fillers before fully securing the IKEA boxes to the rails and having my countertop measured/installed? Thank you!!

    1. Sara – I think you can template without the panels and fillers, and I think you would hang the boxes first anyway. With the template, you just want to account for the thickness of the panels, which should be 3/4″. So, you would want to tell the fabricators that you want an overhang of 1.75″ from the box so you end up with 1″ (or whatever you prefer). A typical overhang from the box is 1.25″ – 1.5″.

      1. Thank so much! Appreciate the advice–that will make my life so much easier these next few months. 🙂

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Jillian Lare Des Moines Interior Designer

About Jillian

Welcome! I’m a Des Moines based interior designer, boy mom to one, avid reader and always aspiring artist. I started this blog when I moved to Iowa in 2008. Currently, I write about life in Iowa, personal development, and my creative journey.

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